Garrett Madison

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Garrett Madison
Garrett Madison on Mountain 3.JPG
BornNovember 3, 1978 (1978-11-03) (age 40)
EducationWestern Washington University
Parent(s)James Christian and Mary Margaret Madison

Garrett Madison (born November 3, 1978) is an American mountaineer and guide.[1] Madison began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and his company, Madison Mountaineering, specializes in climbs on Mount Everest and other high altitude peaks, operates on the highest peaks on all seven continents, and also provides training programs and summit climbs in Washington State.[2] On May 19–20, 2011, he reached the summit of Mt Everest on his fourth successful attempt as expedition leader and guide for Alpine Ascents International, and reached the summit of Lhotse (the fourth highest mountain in the world) 21 hours later as guide to climber Tom Halliday.[3][4] Also on the expedition was guide Michael Horst who made both summits as well in under a 24-hour period, a few days earlier.[5] This was the first time that both Everest and Lhotse were summited together in less than 24 hours, and Madison repeated the "double header" feat again in 2013, the only person to do so twice.[6][7][8] In 2014, Madison led the first successfully guided ascent of K2, reaching the summit with two climbers and three Sherpas on July 27, 2014. On 22 July 2018, Madison successfully led a team of 24 to the summit of K2 and became the first American to summit K2 more than once.[9][10] Madison also regularly guides many "7 Summits" expeditions such as Carstensz Pyramid, Aconcagua, Vinson Massif, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus during the year.

In addition, Madison is regularly involved with film productions on Everest, participating in 4 different features over the last 3 years.[11] Most recently, Madison's company, Madison Mountaineering, brought a virtual reality camera to the summit of Mt. Everest.[12] As an executive producer, Garrett Madison was awarded the 2017 Sports Emmy in Outstanding Digital Innovation for the resulting VR production, Capturing Everest.[13][14]

Madison was leading a team of climbers up Mt Everest when the April 2015 Nepal earthquake triggered an avalanche, resulting in the deadliest day in Everest's history. The team's doctor, Eve Girawong, was one of the American fatalities.

Madison holds multiple high altitude mountaineering world records such as being the only person to climb Mt Everest and nearby Lhotse in a day, 3 times. He is the only American to climb K2 twice, and personally has led more climbers to the summits of Mt Everest and K2 than anyone.


Outside Magazine's story of the deadly September 2012 avalanche on Manaslu is supported with photos and notes of Madison's mountain rescue and recovery efforts.[15]

An interview and story of Madison's 2012 Mt. Everest summit was published in the October 2012 issue of Outside Magazine.[16]

The MTN Meister Podcast featured an interview with Madison in 2014 detailing, among other things, his ascent of K2 that was the mountain's first ever guided climb.[17]

Outside Magazine featured Madison on the cover of their 2015 Adventure Issue.[18]

People Magazine and The Today Show both highlighted Madison's experience during the April 2015 Nepal earthquake while covering the tragedy.[19][20]

In July 2015, ESPN featured Madison in a video about Mt Everest.[21]

See also[edit]


  1. ^ "Alpine Ascents International Guide Staff". Retrieved March 30, 2012.
  2. ^ "Madison Mountaineering Official Website". Madison Mountaineering.
  3. ^ "Everest News". Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, 2011: Team is back in Everest Base Camp. Archived from the original on February 24, 2012. Retrieved March 30, 2012.
  4. ^ "Record-setting performances highlight a bizarre week on Mt. Everest". GrindTV.
  5. ^ "Everest and Lhotse in Less Than 21 Hours". Climbing Magazine. Archived from the original on September 20, 2011. Retrieved March 31, 2012.
  6. ^ Hawley, Elizabeth (2004–2011). The Himalayan Database: The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley. Golden, CO: American Alpine Club. ISBN 978-9937-506-64-9.
  7. ^ "Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, 2011: Team is back in Everest Base Camp". Everest News. Archived from the original on February 24, 2012. Retrieved March 30, 2012.
  8. ^ "Garrett Madison biography". Retrieved October 7, 2015.
  9. ^ "K2 2018 Summer Coverage: Record Weekend on K2 and a Death". The Blog on Retrieved 2 December 2018.
  10. ^ "Madison Mountaineering: Dispatches: K2 2018".
  11. ^ "Garrett Madison biography". Retrieved October 7, 2015.
  12. ^ "Sports Illustrated partnering to produce first complete Mt. Everest climb in virtual reality".
  13. ^ "39th Annual Sports Emmy Awards Winners Announced". Retrieved September 21, 2018.
  14. ^ "Capturing Everest". Retrieved September 21, 2018.
  15. ^ "11 Dead or Missing, Scores Injured in Manaslu Avalanche". Outside.
  16. ^ "Take a Number". Outside.
  17. ^ "Garrett Madison: Paving the Way". MTN Meister Podcast.
  18. ^ "Outside Magazine, May 2015". Outside Online.
  19. ^ "Everest Avalanche Survivor Garrett Madison: 'I Was Powerless to Help'". People.
  20. ^ "Mount Everest climber describes 'awful noise' of avalanche". TODAY.
  21. ^ "SC Featured: At the Top of the World". ESPN.

External links[edit]